Chasselas is Switzerland's national grape and one of European viticulture's last hidden secrets. It's a variety that makes beguilingly subtle white wines with delicate waves of character rather than great surges of fruit, alcohol or acidity. Once you've fallen for its understated charms, you'll never hear the word 'neutral' in the same way again.
Happily for you, we've got our hands on a real beauty from one of the top Swiss co-operatives, La Cave de la Côte. The grapes come from Morges, in the lee of the Jura mountains and practically on the shores of Lake Geneva, from which the vines soak up sunlight and heat all summer long.
Chasselas really shines in these conditions. It's a blank canvas of a variety that paints its origins into its wines. This one is all about gentle citrus, juicy apples and flinty, pebbly minerality (go with us on that one, you'll see what we mean when you try it). The finish is intriguingly satisfying - this is a wine you keep wanting to come back to.
The Swiss love the easy-drinking nature of Chasselas and merrily drink it on its own. But it's a great food wine too, most obviously with fondue but also with fish, salads and white meat.