Umathum has been recognised as one of Austria's very top producers for the last three decades. The family's diligence in their Neusiedlersee vineyards is one of their greatest assets - they grow to biodynamic principles and regularly experiment with new clones and techniques.
No expense is spared in the winery either, with large new-oak barrels made in league with seasoned forest farmers and coopers.
When the results are wines this delicious, those efforts are clearly being put to good use. The 2014 Pinot Noir is a balancing act of freshness and power. It's a delicate ruby colour with an intensely spicy dried-orange and red fruit nose.
The palate is savoury and herbal - fennel, thyme and garrigue, with smoky, chocolate hints. Right through to the fresh sappy finish, the oak supports but never overwhelms.