As part of our involvement with the Rioja Wine Club (which you can read more about in Dan's blog post here) we were treated to a Rioja Wine Masterclass with Jimmy Smith aka Wine With Jimmy, a leading wine educator and industry all-rounder. Alongside demonstrating the classical typicity of Rioja wines we discussed some of the changes and developments in the region, and the excellent variety of wines being produced thanks to these.

Old Vines, Garnacha and Single Vineyards - Rioja looks forward

For many wine drinkers, a Rioja will always mean a particular style: a fairly bold red wine with smooth tannins, labelled by the length of time in oak (Reserva etc). This consistency of style, and particularly of image can be a great benefit but also a hindrance to Rioja as a whole. On the one hand, a clear idea of what 'a Rioja' tastes like makes choosing easy for consumers. On the other, it discourages winemakers from experimentation and puts off consumers who don't enjoy a strongly oak-flavoured wine so much. 

So how are people doing new things? The first is greater respect being given to the region's Garnacha vines, many of which are very old and planted at high altitude. Garnacha had been encouraged to be pulled up, as with the wrong methods and in flatter sites is susceptible to overcropping and dull or jammy wines. However, when taken care of right, the wines balance effusive fruitiness with fresh acidity and subtler tannin than Tempranillo. 

The other big change is the introduction of single vineyard wines (Vinedo Singular). The idea of a wine based on a sole site, as an expression of an exceptional terroir, is nothing new in the world of wine but is pretty radical in Rioja. So radical in fact, that it took the producers of Rioja Alavesa threatening to leave the denomination altogether for the Consejo to finally permit producers to name vineyards on their labels in 2017!

Here are a selection of great Riojas both white & red, these wines represent the variety of styles, including Garnacha-dominant wine with no oak, and single vineyard wines from centenarian vines.

Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta Rioja Tempranillo Blanco Cosecha 2023 - £14.95

They are based in Haro in the Rioja Alta, the originator, Felix Martinez Lacuesta also represented producers in the set up of the Regulatory Body of the Rioja DO. They were a pioneering force in exporting Rioja wines, in the early 1900s, paving the way for others.

A white mutation of Tempranillo, Tempranillo Blanco was first identified in Rioja vineyards in 1988. At the time the style of white wine was very much focused on long barrel ageing, rich oaky and nutty wines so it was seen as less desirable than Viura. As the world of wine has focused more on freshness and fruit expression, Tempranillo Blanco has come into its own in recent years.

Expressive and vibrant, with nectarine, mandarin and lemon aromas. Clean and refreshing on the palate with a subtle creaminess from ageing on lees.

Martinez Lacuesta Crianza 2019 - £17.50

Founded in 1895 during Rioja's boom period, Martinez Lacuesta is a family winery that make their wines in the classic way. Their vineyards are in Haro at the heart of Rioja Alta, where Tempranillo retains excellent freshness. After full destemming and fermentation in vats, the Crianza is aged in American oak casks for around two years, which impart a lot of character.

A mixture of fresh and dried red fruits come through on the nose, red cherry, currants and raspberry. The oak is present too, in the form of dill, vanilla and caramel notes. Medium bodied with smooth tannins and good freshness, it balances savoury notes of roasted coffee and biscuit with more dried fruit notes. Suits the classic Riojan food pairing of lamb excellently.

El Coto Rioja Blanc 2023 Half Bottle - £7.49

Established during 1970, the Spanish wine brand of El Coto, is a well-known name in the wine market of not only Spain but across the world. The winemaking team at El Coto de Rioja call themselves the artisans of wine and they are absolutely right about it. 

El Coto Rioja Blanco is a stunning white wine from Spain's esteemed Rioja region, delivering a crisp and revitalizing white wine experience. Crafted exclusively from 100% Viura grapes, it presents a harmonious fusion of delicate floral notes intertwined with the vibrant essence of citrus, peach, and green apple.

Its luminous pale straw hue and impeccably clean finish make it a versatile companion to an array of dishes, including seafood, grilled vegetables, poultry, and creamy pasta creations. Whether sipped solo or paired with a meal, this wine caters to those with a penchant for a light, fruity style imbued with a hint of refinement and grace.

Gomez Cruzado Linea Karman 2022 - £12.99 Vegan, Sustainable

A winery in Rioja since 1886, Gomez Cruzado are undergoing something of a renaissance, particularly with their focus on old vines from high altitude

The Karman Tinto is predominantly bush-vine Garnacha from the cool Cardenas river valley, supplemented with a small portion of Tempranillo. Whole berry fermentation and ageing in stainless steel are utilised to maximise the fruity expression in this wine.

Abundant red and black berry fruit fills the nose, reminiscent of English summer pudding, with a subtle peppery hint. On the palate it is smooth and juicy, with a delightful lightness that makes it suitable to serve lightly chilled.

Bodegas Bhilar Phinca Lali 2017 - £47.50 Biodynamic, Organic

David Sampedro Gil is a native of Rioja Alavesa, the Basque part of Rioja. Alongside consulting for many of the large and prestigious producers in the region, he has farmed his own small plots of old vines since 1999. Always working organically, he incorporated more biodynamic methods over time and in 2014, after devoting himself wholly to the Bhilar wines, abandoned tractors in his vineyards in favour of using horses.

Phinca Lali is one of his single vineyard wines, planted in 1910 to 90% Tempranillo and 10% Viura, in clay-limestone soils. The fruit is partially destemmed by hand, leaving around a third as whole bunches before fermenting with wild yeasts in 500l open top oak barrels. The wine then ages for 3 years in oak before bottling. Just 1281 bottles made from this low yielding 0.54 hectare vineyard.

The old vines give astounding complexity and power to this wine, with the oak serving just as a structural component rather than dominating the flavour. Damson and black cherry fruit are enveloped in savoury and spicy notes, stone and iron, dark chocolate, liquorice and thyme. Bold and structured on the palate, with firm but fine tannin and a lovely refreshing acidity. A very complete wine and a singular example of contemporary single vineyard wine from Rioja. We also have a small number of his red and white from the Phinca La Revilla vineyard, which are aged a remarkable six years in barrel before release.

Bodegas Estaunza Rioja Alavesa 2023

Set alongside the scenic banks of the Ebro River in the charming town of Lapuebla de Labarca, you'll find Bodegas Estraunza. This family-led estate, established in 1990, craft wines that beautifully blend modernity and tradition in their state-of-the-art facilities.

Expertly crafted in Spain's famous Rioja region, Bodegas Estaunza Rioja Alavesa showcases the perfect blend of modern and traditional winemaking techniques. With 25-year-old Tempranillo vines grown on hillside vineyards near Laguardia, this youthful wine boasts vibrant red fruit, floral notes, and a touch of liquorice. The refined palate offers a silky mouthfeel and impressive length, making this a truly exceptional wine.